Rating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Merino Extrafine 2/30 col. dark blue cone 500 grRating:
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Merino Extrafine 2/30 col. brown cone 500 gr
Updated August 31, 2016.
Mittens are a necessity for most kids' wardrobes, and these cute basics are so easy you'll spend more time fighting your kids to wear them than you did knitting them! I left mine plain for the photo but I'm itching to add a little heart or flower to one side of each, which will distinguish the left from the right.
These mittens are sized for toddlers and bigger kids, but they're really easy to customize, too, as long as you know the measurements for your kid's wrist and hand circumference and hand and thumb length.
20 stitches and 32 rounds per 4 inches (5 stitches and 8 rounds per inch) in Stockinette Stitch in the round.
To fit a toddler (child). Wrist measurement for both is around 5.5 inches (but will stretch), with a hand length of 4 (7) inches.
Knit a second mitten in the same manner.
If desired, embellish with embroidery, a duplicate stitch motif or another embellishment of your choosing.
Knit These Basic Child's Mittens and Keep Some...Rating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. green melange cones 500 gr
When you're ready to start working the second color, simply drop the first color and pick up the yarn for the second color. Knit the first stitch.
This stitch will look really loopy, loose and awful when you first knit it, but persist. When you're further along in the row you can tighten up the last stitch of the previous row and the first stitch on this row by pulling gently on the yarn tails.
Speaking of yarn tails, make sure you leave a tail of at least six inches at each end of each stripe.
This will make it easy to weave your ends in securely later. Alternatively, if your stripes are short and you're going to use the same color again, you can carry the unused yarn up the side so it's where you need it when you need it again.
How to Change Colors for Stripes in KnittingRating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. dark blue cones 500 grRating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. burgundy cones 500 grRating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. black cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
ANGORA Yarn Angora Super 2/10000 cones 200 grRating:
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Yarn 2/25 wool/acrilyc for knitting machine 12-7 cones 400 grRating:
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Yarn 2/25 wool/acrilyc for knitting machine 12-7 skeins 400 gr
Knitting in the round (aka circular knitting) is a popular choice for speed and ease of knitting, and it's almost required for some projects such as socks and hats. But if you want to work a stitch pattern in the round and you only have instructions for the pattern worked flat, how do you go about converting a stitch pattern to be knit in the round?
When knitting with circular needles, the key thing to remember is that you are always working from the right side, or what will be the outside of the work when it is worn or used.
What would be the wrong side rows if you were working flat are just every other right side round when knitting circularly.
Because the knit stitch and the purl stitch are opposites, to get these "wrong side" rounds to look right on the right side, you have to work stitches the opposite of what you would in flat knitting.
The classic example is Stockinette Stitch, which is worked flat by knitting a row and purling a row.
continue reading below our video
How to Do Stockinette Stitch
In circular knitting, instead of purling that row, you're knitting a round -- the opposite of what you'd do knitting flat. Likewise with Garter Stitch, which is knit every row when worked flat, you have to purl the second round in order to get the classic corrugated look.
With more complicated stitch patterns you have to think a little bit more about what you're doing when you convert flat stitch patterns to circular knitting, but it's not too difficult. The rounds that would have been wrong side rows are both opposite and backward from the way you'd knit them flat.
It's easy to visualize that if you think about something like a knit 3, purl 1 rib. Worked on a multiple of 4 stitches, you'll end with a purl 1. When you work the wrong side, you'll knit 1, purl 3 across. In circular knitting you just keep repeating the knit 3, purl 1 -- opposite and backwards of what you'd do knitting flat.
For basic stitch patterns, an understanding of what the finished stitch pattern is supposed to look like and the ability to tell a knit stitch from a purl stitch make it easier to convert a stitch pattern from flat knitting to knitting in the round.
Take Seed Stitch, for example. All you're doing when you knit Seed Stitch is stacking knits on top of purls and purls on top of knits. Knowing that, you can just look at your knitting and knit the opposite of the stitch you're presented with and you'll never have to pay attention to which round you're on.
What if you want to convert something a little more complex, like a lace pattern? The patterns that are easiest to convert are those that have a plain wrong side row (where you're just purling or knitting across) because that way you don't have to worry about trying to figure out how to work a lace pattern opposite and backward!
Another important thing to keep in mind is that many stitch patterns knit flat have extra stitches (it's that "plus 2" in a pattern that says to work it over, say, multiples of 6 plus 2). Those extra stitches balance a pattern out when it's knit flat, but they aren't necessary when working in the round, so take them out of your calculations and conversions.
Likewise any knitting instructions that come outside the main pattern repeat (before or after the section with the asterisk) should be omitted. These are the same balancing stitches that aren't needed when working in the round.
Here are some of the most common stitch patterns you might want to convert into knitting in the round and how to do it:
For more stitch patterns in the round and tips for knitting all sorts of projects on circular needles, check out Very Easy Circular Knits by Betty Barnden.
The Up, Down, All Around Stitch Dictionary by Wendy Bernard is another great source for working stitch patterns in different directions, because it shows how to work patterns top down, bottom up, flat and in the round, which is great if you're knitting parts of the same garment in different directions.
Rating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. burgundy cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. burgundy cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. black cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. dark blue cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. light brown cones 590 grKnitting in the round (aka circular knitting) is a popular choice for speed and ease of knitting, and it's almost required for some projects such as socks and hats. But if you want to work a stitch pattern in the round and you only have instructions for the pattern worked flat, how do you go about converting a stitch pattern to be knit in the round?
When knitting with circular needles, the key thing to remember is that you are always working from the right side, or what will be the outside of the work when it is worn or used.
What would be the wrong side rows if you were working flat are just every other right side round when knitting circularly.
Because the knit stitch and the purl stitch are opposites, to get these "wrong side" rounds to look right on the right side, you have to work stitches the opposite of what you would in flat knitting.
The classic example is Stockinette Stitch, which is worked flat by knitting a row and purling a row.
continue reading below our video
How to Do Stockinette Stitch
In circular knitting, instead of purling that row, you're knitting a round -- the opposite of what you'd do knitting flat. Likewise with Garter Stitch, which is knit every row when worked flat, you have to purl the second round in order to get the classic corrugated look.
With more complicated stitch patterns you have to think a little bit more about what you're doing when you convert flat stitch patterns to circular knitting, but it's not too difficult. The rounds that would have been wrong side rows are both opposite and backward from the way you'd knit them flat.
It's easy to visualize that if you think about something like a knit 3, purl 1 rib. Worked on a multiple of 4 stitches, you'll end with a purl 1. When you work the wrong side, you'll knit 1, purl 3 across. In circular knitting you just keep repeating the knit 3, purl 1 -- opposite and backwards of what you'd do knitting flat.
For basic stitch patterns, an understanding of what the finished stitch pattern is supposed to look like and the ability to tell a knit stitch from a purl stitch make it easier to convert a stitch pattern from flat knitting to knitting in the round.
Take Seed Stitch, for example. All you're doing when you knit Seed Stitch is stacking knits on top of purls and purls on top of knits. Knowing that, you can just look at your knitting and knit the opposite of the stitch you're presented with and you'll never have to pay attention to which round you're on.
What if you want to convert something a little more complex, like a lace pattern? The patterns that are easiest to convert are those that have a plain wrong side row (where you're just purling or knitting across) because that way you don't have to worry about trying to figure out how to work a lace pattern opposite and backward!
Another important thing to keep in mind is that many stitch patterns knit flat have extra stitches (it's that "plus 2" in a pattern that says to work it over, say, multiples of 6 plus 2). Those extra stitches balance a pattern out when it's knit flat, but they aren't necessary when working in the round, so take them out of your calculations and conversions.
Likewise any knitting instructions that come outside the main pattern repeat (before or after the section with the asterisk) should be omitted. These are the same balancing stitches that aren't needed when working in the round.
Here are some of the most common stitch patterns you might want to convert into knitting in the round and how to do it:
For more stitch patterns in the round and tips for knitting all sorts of projects on circular needles, check out Very Easy Circular Knits by Betty Barnden.
The Up, Down, All Around Stitch Dictionary by Wendy Bernard is another great source for working stitch patterns in different directions, because it shows how to work patterns top down, bottom up, flat and in the round, which is great if you're knitting parts of the same garment in different directions.
CLEANING TIPS FOR CONSUMERS
If you want your sweater in cashmere always remains soft and fluffy , follow these tips :
Soaking them in warm water with a mild detergent or shampoo for hair ( usatene very little ) , adding in case of scratches or bright colors a bit ' of white vinegar.
Let it soak for a short time, up to ten or fifteen minutes.
Do not rub it gently and manipolatelo .
Patiently rinse several times and with so much water , always warm , until the water is completely clear .
Do not squeeze it , but remove the water by pressing gently .
Wrap jerseys in a terry towel to remove excess water .
Hang on a horizontal surface , taking care to avoid direct exposure to the sun.
Let dry at room temperature , never close to a heat source .
Stiratelo with a strong jet of steam without a press with the iron.
A little tip : wash your jerseys often in Cashmere , so that the fibers will find new strength and your boss will be as good as new .
OPERATING TIPS FOR INDUSTRIAL FINISHING PRODUCTS IN CASHMERE
For best results we recommend a dry cleaning quote followed by a wash with water treatment facility .
FIRST STEP :
OPERATING TIPS FOR THE TREATMENT OF DRY AND FINISHING PRODUCTS IN CASHMERE
Sample orientation dry treatment machines " Donini D- 150" from kg.25/30 and about 400 gallons of perc Ethylene .
Load the perc Ethylene at room temperature and spin the mesh for a period of time which can vary from 1 minute to 6 minutes.
Download the solvent and spin the mesh without the bath perchlore Ethylene for a period of time that can vary from 5 minutes to 8 minutes, depending on the type of stitch and the desired result .
At the end of treatment and spin dry.
It is advisable to keep the temperature of the perc Ethylene under control, because a few degrees of temperature change of the solvent affect the final result. Particular attention must be paid to the variation of the ambient temperature due to the change of the seasons , are in fact just a few degrees of change to get a different result.
Continue finishing the treatment with water .
SECOND STEP :
OPERATING TIPS FOR THE TREATMENT OF WATER AND FINISHING PRODUCTS IN CASHMERE
Sample orientation of water treatment machines " Lavenda " kg . 4/5 and about 125 liters of water
It is advisable to do a pre-wash with water at about 30 ° C , using 3 grams of soap per liter of water, for a period of time of about 2 minutes.
Download the bathroom and restart with water at a temperature of 35-40 ° C by adding 3 grams of soap per liter of water , treated for a period from 2 to 6 minutes depending on the type of color, mesh point and the desired result .
At the end of treatment rinse the meshes in water at 30 ° C.
Do not spin dry thoroughly and vests immediately to avoid wrinkling .
Drying at a temperature of 75 ° C for 15-20 minutes, then continue for 3-5 minutes , stopping the flow of hot air . We recommend that you remove the mesh dall'asciugante well dried to prevent wrinkling .
Additional tips :
The bath ratio should be 1:25 to 1:30 , that are necessary for every Kg 25/30 liters of water.
If the water has a hardness greater than 7/8 degrees is necessary to install a water softener .
And ' prudent to make sure that the water supply to the machine at the desired temperature and to be careful not to heat the water in the car with the mesh inside.
You should always make the treatment on their shirts inside out.
We do not recommend the use of any additive and / or fabric softener .
The treatment carried out with water temperature above 40 ° C may result in undesirable color change of color ; therefore recommend that you carefully check the actual temperature of the solution, however it is good practice to test all the colors before proceeding with production.
If you decide to avoid the prior dry cleaning , it must nevertheless be carried out for all the pastel colors and stained garments .
We remind you that these statements are only an indication .
If the operation is done on a machine of another type , you have to consider the possibility that there is a different mechanical action , therefore , in this case , our suggestions may require variations .
We recommend that you always run the tests in order to assess the outcome of each color in different knitting stitches , to leave this unchanged in the wash water , the liquor ratio and temperature, acting only on the time of treatment.
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TWINS Italian Linen 100% 3/1 cones 1 kgRating:
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Yarn Wool Merino Extrafine Superwash 2/30000 cones 1000 grRating:
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Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. anthracit cones 500 grRating:
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ROYAL 2/56 yarn 100% merino extrafine col. dark blue cones 500 grRating:
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SPORT Printed Fantasy Yarn 100% Wool skeins 400 gr
The next step in performing the knitted cast on, exactly like the next step in forming a knit stitch, is to loop the yarn that is attached to the ball over the point of the right-hand needle, going counter-clockwise.
Hold the yarn loosely in your right hand. This is known as English knitting, right-hand knitting or "throwing," which is different from Continental knitting, in which the yarn is held in the left hand.
(You can of course do the same thing continental style if that's the method you want to learn.)
Be careful not to loop the yarn over both needles, and don't pull too tightly or your stitches will be hard to work. Your loops should be tight enough to stay on the needle, but loose enough to slide the second needle through with ease.
This is a concept known as tension, and like in other parts of life, too much tension makes things more difficult. As you become a more experienced knitter, you'll learn what feels like the right amount of tension in your work.
Learn to Knit While Casting On Knitting with...
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Alpaca Yarn
The Alpaca produces a natural fiber shiny and silky. The fiber has a special structure that helps protect from the cold and to maintain a constant heat and moisture from the body.
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There comes a time in every knitter's life when she or he is called on to do some baby knitting, whether for her own child or for a friend or family member. Some people are even motivated to start knitting because they want to make something for a new little one in their life.
But not all baby knitting patterns are created equal, and just any old project won't always suit your needs. Here are some considerations you might want to think about when looking for baby knitting patterns.
Cotton and washable wool are probably the most popular choices for baby things because they are easy to care for, but you'll find patterns running the gamut of fiber choices, from bamboo to cashmere, alpaca to silk.
Of course a lot of the more luxurious knitting fibers are not so easy to care for, so consider the parents you are knitting for before you choose to knit an item that will have to be handwashed or that might not take kindly to stain treatments.
When I knit for non-knitters, I try to choose yarns that are machine washable, but when I knit for knitters or others who I feel I can trust to take good care of garments that need a little more attention, then I'll bring out the alpaca and other handwash fibers.
No matter what fiber you choose or who the gift is for, it's always a good idea to include care instructions in the package.
When it comes to knits for babies and small children, there are two main things to consider in terms of how items are constructed and worn: ease of putting on and taking off and safety issues.
It can be difficult to get items over the heads of babies, both because they tend to have large heads and because they don't like things that go over their heads. A cardigan, V-neck or kimono-style top is a much better choice than a crewneck.
Of course comfort is an issue when it comes to the choice of yarn, too. Babies have sensitive skin, so the softer the yarn you choose, the better.
The other piece of the construction issue is safety. Projects without long ties are good choices, because ties can get caught in small spaces and pose a strangulation risk.
If buttons are used, make sure they are sewn on very securely. Using a zipper instead of buttons may make more sense for small children who may pull off a button and swallow it.
You might also want to think twice about projects that are very lacy or have a lot of small holes in them. Small children can potentially get caught in such garments, but the beauty of a lace receiving blanket or a blankie with eyelet edging can't be denied. It's just something to consider.
For some people it's hard to resist those pastel pinks and blues, but some parents don't like the cliches and may even be trying to limit those colors in their baby's life (or they may not know the gender of the child until it is born).
For that reason it pays to talk to the parents before you start a project to make sure that the color you've chosen will work with the parents' preferences. You don't want to spend a long time making a garment that will never be used because the recipient doesn't like the color.
The final important consideration when contemplating baby knitting is whether you want to knit something that will be considered an heirloom or something that will be used day in and day out.
Most people I knit for get items that are meant to be used well, which is another good reason to use machine washable fibers.
But every now and then a special child will warrant a more precious project (like that lace receiving blanket mentioned above). In that case you can probably choose a fiber that needs more attention when cared for because it won't need to be washed as often as, say, a blanket used daily for tummy time.
Your relationship to the person you are knitting for and the amount of time you have to spend on the project will likely play into your decision about what exactly to knit and whether it's an item for everyday or something to be treasured (which is not to say a project can't be both).
And there are times when all logic goes out the window, you find a perfect pattern or a beautiful yarn and you just have to knit it, even if it's not the most sensible choice. That's a fine way to choose a project, too.
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This project uses moss stitch, a simple pattern stitch of four repeating rows. If you want to change the size of this project, you must keep with multiples of two stitches to make the pattern work.
This is an easy pattern to modify because you can make it longer just by using more yarn. If you basically doubled the amount of yarn called for, you'd get a more square afghan.
Also experiment with different yarns to make your own unique afghans. This is such an easy pattern you could make several throws in different colors that you could have out in your house seasonally.
This entry passed through the Full-Text RSS service - if this is your content and you're reading it on someone else's site, please read the FAQ at http://ift.tt/jcXqJW.
Recommended article from FiveFilters.org: Most Labour MPs in the UK Are Revolting.
The next step in performing the knitted cast on, exactly like the next step in forming a knit stitch, is to loop the yarn that is attached to the ball over the point of the right-hand needle, going counter-clockwise.
Hold the yarn loosely in your right hand. This is known as English knitting, right-hand knitting or "throwing," which is different from Continental knitting, in which the yarn is held in the left hand.
(You can of course do the same thing continental style if that's the method you want to learn.)
Be careful not to loop the yarn over both needles, and don't pull too tightly or your stitches will be hard to work. Your loops should be tight enough to stay on the needle, but loose enough to slide the second needle through with ease.
This is a concept known as tension, and like in other parts of life, too much tension makes things more difficult. As you become a more experienced knitter, you'll learn what feels like the right amount of tension in your work.
Learn to Knit While Casting On Knitting with...
Updated July 08, 2015.
Knitting is somewhat of a geeky pursuit, and a lot of knitters happen to be -- or be friends or partners with -- people who are geeky in other ways, too. From fans of science fiction and fantasy to computer geeks and beyond, there are a lot of ways to express your passion in knitting projects.
When I think of geek knitting, the first thing that comes to mind is the Doctor Who Scarf. This giant scarf -- there were four variations in the show but they're all massive at 12 to 14 feet long -- was worn by Tom Baker during his incarnation of the Doctor and is a classic costume accessory.
The site linked above has what are considered the official patterns based on the scarves worn on the show, and the site is pretty obsessive in its authenticity.
There's also a knee-high sock pattern based on the original colors, which is a lot of fun and might be faster than knitting a giant scarf. (Designed by Lesley Brownlee.)
Other Doctor Who Projects
While the scarf is probably the most essential knitting project for a Doctor Who fan, there are many others.
Maybe an iPad cozy that looks like a TARDIS? A baby jumper that looks like a Dalek? A toddler TARDIS hat?
Or what about a knit sonic screwdriver, mitts inspired by the sweater vest worn by the seventh Doctor, a plush TARDIS or Dalek or even an amazing shawl designed by Kate Atherley with TARDIS designs knit right in?
Show Off Your Inner Geek with These Knitting...Rating:
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Yarn 100% Cashmere 2/48 worsted col. natural white cones 490 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% Cashmere 1/15 col. anthracit cones 500 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
Yarn 100% merino extrafine 2/28 col. green melange cones 500 grKnitting in the round (aka circular knitting) is a popular choice for speed and ease of knitting, and it's almost required for some projects such as socks and hats. But if you want to work a stitch pattern in the round and you only have instructions for the pattern worked flat, how do you go about converting a stitch pattern to be knit in the round?
When knitting with circular needles, the key thing to remember is that you are always working from the right side, or what will be the outside of the work when it is worn or used.
What would be the wrong side rows if you were working flat are just every other right side round when knitting circularly.
Because the knit stitch and the purl stitch are opposites, to get these "wrong side" rounds to look right on the right side, you have to work stitches the opposite of what you would in flat knitting.
The classic example is Stockinette Stitch, which is worked flat by knitting a row and purling a row.
In circular knitting, instead of purling that row, you're knitting a round -- the opposite of what you'd do knitting flat. Likewise with Garter Stitch, which is knit every row when worked flat, you have to purl the second round in order to get the classic corrugated look.
With more complicated stitch patterns you have to think a little bit more about what you're doing when you convert flat stitch patterns to circular knitting, but it's not too difficult. The rounds that would have been wrong side rows are both opposite and backward from the way you'd knit them flat.
It's easy to visualize that if you think about something like a knit 3, purl 1 rib. Worked on a multiple of 4 stitches, you'll end with a purl 1. When you work the wrong side, you'll knit 1, purl 3 across. In circular knitting you just keep repeating the knit 3, purl 1 -- opposite and backwards of what you'd do knitting flat.
For basic stitch patterns, an understanding of what the finished stitch pattern is supposed to look like and the ability to tell a knit stitch from a purl stitch make it easier to convert a stitch pattern from flat knitting to knitting in the round.
Take Seed Stitch, for example. All you're doing when you knit Seed Stitch is stacking knits on top of purls and purls on top of knits. Knowing that, you can just look at your knitting and knit the opposite of the stitch you're presented with and you'll never have to pay attention to which round you're on.
What if you want to convert something a little more complex, like a lace pattern? The patterns that are easiest to convert are those that have a plain wrong side row (where you're just purling or knitting across) because that way you don't have to worry about trying to figure out how to work a lace pattern opposite and backward!
Another important thing to keep in mind is that many stitch patterns knit flat have extra stitches (it's that "plus 2" in a pattern that says to work it over, say, multiples of 6 plus 2). Those extra stitches balance a pattern out when it's knit flat, but they aren't necessary when working in the round, so take them out of your calculations and conversions.
Likewise any knitting instructions that come outside the main pattern repeat (before or after the section with the asterisk) should be omitted. These are the same balancing stitches that aren't needed when working in the round.
Here are some of the most common stitch patterns you might want to convert into knitting in the round and how to do it:
For more stitch patterns in the round and tips for knitting all sorts of projects on circular needles, check out Very Easy Circular Knits by Betty Barnden.
The Up, Down, All Around Stitch Dictionary by Wendy Bernard is another great source for working stitch patterns in different directions, because it shows how to work patterns top down, bottom up, flat and in the round, which is great if you're knitting parts of the same garment in different directions.
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Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
SPORT Printed Fantasy Yarn 100% Wool skeins 400 grRating:
Have recently placed my first order and am extremely impressed with the customer service. I have been given details of the shipping arrangements, which I am able to track (which for an overseas customer gives peace of mind that the consignement is on its way. I will definitely recommend this company to others and look forward to placing more orders with this company.
SPORT Printed Fantasy Yarn 100% Wool cones 400 grPlaced on December 13, 2015
Placed on December 13, 2015
Placed on December 13, 2015
If you were knitting a hem on a garment in a normal way, from here you would just continue on to the body of the garment and finish the hem at the end by folding along the fold line (or the row with the yarn overs in the case of a picot hem) and sewing the first three rows to the back of the work.
Instead, we are going to "sew" the hem right now as we knit the next row.
Fold the first three rows to the back of the work, either on the turning row or the picot edging row, depending on the type of hem you are knitting.
Put the right-hand needle into the first stitch as if to knit, then go through the first stitch of the cast on edge and knit these two "stitches" together.
Repeat across the row, working the stitch with its corresponding stitch along the edge, until you have worked all the stitches. This results in a hem that is sewn down firmly, but rips out as easily as frogging your knitting should you need to.
From there, continue to work the body of the garment as indicated in the pattern.
Now that you know how to do this you can easily add a "sewn" hem or a picot edge to any knitting project you like, from sweaters to hats or even the edge of a dishcloth for extra cuteness.
That one row will take a bit longer to work, and in the beginning it's a little fiddly to pick up the stitch on the edge in the right place, but it's a lot quicker and easier than sewing the hem down by hand and there are no extra ends to weave in. It doesn't really get any better than that.
This method is used in the Picot Edge Fingerless Gloves pattern from Dawn Prickett.
The Royal Llama Silk Hat from Plymouth Yarns uses a picot edging where the seam is sewn after the knitting is done, but you can easily use this method instead so there's no finishing other than weaving in ends when you're done. Carole Julius has a great pair of picot-edged socks, too, which are otherwise Stockinette and really simple to knit.
Knit a Picot Hem and Seam it as You KnitPlaced on December 13, 2015
Placed on December 13, 2015
